After a long road trip at the end of August, it’s been two months since I last went on any trips to take photos for the Croatia Captured project. I knew I wouldn’t be able to do another long road trip until 2025, so I wrote down a few ideas for one- or two-day road trips to take before the end of 2024. The first of these was this one.
The plan was to visit a few places in Kvarner (specifically, the east side of the Istrian peninsula) and a few places within Istria itself.
The day started at 4 am, and I left Zagreb before 6 am. The weather wasn’t as I had hoped for, but at least it wasn’t raining. Fun fact: when I set off back to Zagreb, the clouds disappeared, and the sun was shining. Yes, fun times.
During the trip, I visited Lovran, Mošćenice (first visited in 2016), Brseč, Old Town Plomin, Old Town Kršan, and Old Town Labin. I had a few more places on the list, but this road trip was too much for one day, and I was too tired, so I set off for Zagreb after Labin.
Now, let’s see what the internet has to say about the third location of that day – Brseč.
Perched on a cliff 160 meters above the Adriatic Sea, Brseč is a hidden gem on the Istrian Peninsula. This medieval town has retained its historic charm, with narrow streets, stone houses, and breathtaking views of the Kvarner Bay and surrounding islands. Just a short drive from Opatija, Brseč is a place where history, culture, and natural beauty intertwine.
A Glimpse Into the Past
Brseč’s medieval essence is evident in its architecture, with most townhouses built in the 17th century. The town’s walls, fortifications, and church bell tower, however, date back to the early Middle Ages. At the heart of Brseč lies the Kaštel, the old fortress around which the town developed. Many of the houses still bear inscriptions in the ancient Glagolitic script, a reflection of the area’s cultural heritage.
One of Brseč’s unique features is its 17th-century olive mill, or toš, which continues to showcase the region’s agricultural traditions. During this period, the local parish priest, Josip Mavrović, oversaw the construction of the Mašunerija, a grand residence with multiple rooms and facilities. He also restored the Parish Church of St. George, one of several important religious sites in the area.
Sacred Landmarks
Brseč is home to several notable religious buildings, including the Church of St. George, the Church of the Holy Cross, the Church of St. Magdalene, and the Church of St. Stephen located in the town’s cemetery. Nearby, the village of Golovik features the Chapel of St. Nicholas and the Church of St. Helena. Each of these sites offers a window into Brseč’s spiritual past and serves as a reminder of the town’s medieval roots.
Cultural Significance
The town honors its most famous resident, Croatian writer and politician Eugen Kumičić, with a bust at the entrance to the old town. His former home has been transformed into the “Eugen K” gallery, where renowned Croatian and international artists exhibit their work. Just 2 km from Brseč, in the hamlet of Zagore, you can visit the studio and gallery of renowned Croatian sculptor Ljubo de Karina, whose works are displayed across the globe.
Unforgettable Views and Events
One of the most striking features of Brseč is the incredible view from the cliff near the small Church of St. Magdalene. Perched above the crashing waves, this spot offers stunning vistas of the Kvarner Bay and serves as a stage for local events, including the popular Brseč Blues Festival.
For visitors seeking an authentic experience, Brseč offers accommodations in private homes and apartments. Staying in one of these traditional coastal houses, with their brightly painted wooden doors and flower-adorned windows, provides an unforgettable experience. Whether you’re enjoying the view of the Adriatic from your window or strolling through the medieval streets, Brseč is a place that transports you back in time.