Visiting Ston was… questionable. When I was planning my road trip around the south of Croatia, one of the main objectives was to visit Dubrovnik. Ston was nearby, but after spending over 2 hours driving from my August base in Makarska and 4-5 hours walking around Dubrovnik in harsh temperatures, I decided to skip Ston. Ston is a great example of the kind of places I love to visit – it has cool architecture, historical landmarks (like its world-famous walls), a cool fortress, and more. But after Dubrovnik, I simply couldn’t. I was exhausted, and it was the middle of the day.
However, while driving back from Dubrovnik, I decided to give it a chance. “Since I’m already here…” kept popping into my head. I visited the Kaštio Fortress, walked around the city, and explored the walls. I didn’t have the energy to walk the entire length of the walls up to Mali Ston, but I’m happy I went there!
Let’s see what the internet has to say about this place.
Ston, a tranquil town on the Pelješac Peninsula, may seem isolated and sleepy today, but until the early 19th century, it was the economic, political, military, ecclesiastical, cultural, and transportation hub of the western part of the Dubrovnik Republic. Known as the “key” to the entire Pelješac Peninsula, Ston’s strategic location, guarding the narrow isthmus connecting the peninsula to the mainland, made it a site of great historical significance.
Ancient Beginnings
The history of human settlement in the Ston area dates back to prehistoric times, specifically to the Neolithic period. The Gudnja Cave, located above Ston, was a focal point of human activity and remains one of the most important archaeological sites from the Neolithic era in southern Adriatic. The cave has yielded numerous stone and bone artifacts, along with a large number of ceramic vessels decorated in the characteristic style of the early inhabitants of Pelješac. Interestingly, remnants of shells, such as oysters, cockles, and whelks, have also been found in the cave, suggesting that the early settlers recognized the culinary richness of the Ston area.
The Illyrians and Romans
The first known inhabitants of the Adriatic coast were the Illyrians, a pastoral people who were conquered by the Romans in the last two centuries before Christ. The Ston and Pelješac regions were inhabited by the Plereji, a lesser-known Illyrian tribe. They left behind characteristic burial mounds made of piled stones, which are still visible scattered across the landscape.
During the Roman Empire, Ston was part of the broader Roman territory, evidenced by the Latin inscriptions and archaeological remains found in the area. The Roman land division (centuriation) of the Ston field is still discernible today. Ston, known in antiquity as Stamnes or Stagnon, is mentioned in the “Cosmography” of the Anonymous of Ravenna (7th century) and on the “Tabula Peutingeriana” as Turris Stagno. The Byzantine Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus later referred to it as Stagnon, and it is listed as Stantania in the Chronicle of the Priest of Duklja.
Medieval Importance
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Slavic-Croats settled along the eastern Adriatic coast. Ston became the center of Zahumlje, one of the Slavic principalities known as Sklavinije, where local rulers and bishops resided. Early medieval Ston was not located at the present site but rather westward, near the hill where the Church of St. Michael now stands. This area likely housed the fortified residence of local rulers, with a chapel and a settlement below. The Church of St. Michael, one of the most significant cultural monuments of Ston’s past, is the only remaining structure from this acropolis complex.
Ston thrived as the center of Zahumlje, with its own rulers and bishops, until the 12th and 13th centuries, when it fell under the influence of the Serbian state of Raška, ruled by the Nemanjić dynasty. This period was marked by dynastic struggles and a devastating earthquake in 1252.
The Dubrovnik Republic and Fortifications
In the early 14th century, Ston entered the sphere of influence of the increasingly powerful Dubrovnik Republic. In 1326, Dubrovnik forces likely took control of the Pelješac Peninsula through a combination of military conquest and diplomatic purchase from the Bosnian Ban and the Serbian King in 1333. From that point, Ston underwent rapid and systematic development. The Dubrovnik authorities allocated land, designed a well-thought-out urban plan, and began constructing walls, houses, palaces, fountains, churches, and monasteries. Ston became the seat of a local governor, housed notarial offices, and served as the administrative, religious, and military center of the area.
The Ston Saltworks, essential for local supply and a major export product for the Dubrovnik Republic, played a critical role in the Republic’s economy. The income from salt was substantial, and the saltworks continue to operate to this day.
Ston was part of the Dubrovnik Republic until its fall in 1808. After a brief French occupation, it became part of the Austrian Empire (later Austria-Hungary) until 1918. During this period, Ston lost much of its significance, with the bishopric being abolished and part of the town’s fortifications dismantled for stone extraction. The town’s historical and cultural importance was only recognized in the 20th century, largely due to the efforts of the renowned Dubrovnik historian Lukša Beritić, who initiated the preservation and restoration of many of Ston’s cultural monuments.
Urban Design and Architecture
Ston was designed with Dubrovnik as its model. It features its own Rector’s Palace, Bishop’s Palace, Main Guard, Cathedral, Minčeta Tower, and Stradun (Main Street). This intentional urban planning makes Ston unique in the region. The most remarkable feature of Ston is its extensive fortifications, which include the second-longest preserved defensive walls in the world, and the longest in Europe, stretching between Ston and Mali Ston.
Geography and Climate
Ston is the main town of the municipality located on the Pelješac Peninsula. The municipality extends from Ston through Ponikve to Janjina. Ston, with the second-largest defensive walls in the world and the oldest saltworks in Europe, lies on the coast, while Ponikve is known for its fields, vineyards, and the port of Prapratno.
Ston has a Mediterranean climate characterized by mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. Average summer temperatures often exceed 30°C, while winter temperatures rarely drop below 5°C. The sea and surrounding mountains moderate the local weather, providing a pleasant climate throughout the year.
Cultural Heritage and Tourism
Ston is rich in cultural heritage, with numerous historical sites, including remnants of early Christian churches, Romanesque architecture, and Renaissance palaces. The town’s famous saltworks and the impressive Ston Walls are major tourist attractions.
Economy
Ston’s economy historically revolved around salt production, which remains significant today. Additionally, tourism, fishing, hospitality, and shellfish farming (mariculture) are important economic activities in the region.
Modern Ston
Today, Ston is known for its peaceful atmosphere, rich history, and cultural significance. The town hosts various cultural and sporting events, including the SOŠK (Stonski omladinski športski klub) football club and the STONe Wall Marathon, where participants run along the historic Ston Walls, passing by the saltworks and oyster farms of the Mali Ston Bay.
Conclusion
Ston, with its unique blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty, offers a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the Dubrovnik region. Whether exploring its ancient walls, enjoying its renowned oysters, or strolling through its charming streets, visitors to Ston are sure to be captivated by its timeless allure.