The entire trip to the Kvarner region was basically unplanned because I didn’t plan on going anywhere that weekend, but, fortunately – plans change. I had made plans to visit Kraljevica, Crikvenica, Novi Vinodolski, and Senj, but after touring these locations, I realized I had some free time left. Therefore, after a quick analysis and review of Google Maps, I discovered that on my return to Rijeka, which was my base, there was an interesting old town nearby. It was actually the old town of Hreljin, located just above Kraljevica, where I had been earlier that day.
Let’s return to the story of visiting the old town of Hreljin. When I entered the location into the navigation, I thought I was in for a fairly straightforward journey. However, after a short drive from Senj, I realized I was mistaken. The navigation brought me quite close, but between me and the location of the old town, there was a twenty-meter elevation and a dense forest; in other words, the navigation had brought me to just an approximate location in the middle of the road. After realizing that the path to the old town might not be as straightforward as I thought, I quickly gave up and entered a new location into the navigation, which I also hadn’t planned to visit that day. As I headed towards the new location, the road took me through the narrow streets of the town of Hreljin, where at one point I saw a signpost for the old town of Hreljin.
I decided to be spontaneous for a moment and followed the signs. After about ten minutes of driving, I came to a sign marking the start of the trail through the forest to the old town. The sign indicated that the old town was 900 meters away, which initially did not seem like a problem to me. However, the lack of parking was a problem; since the streets were very narrow, it was not easy to find a place to park, so I gave up again. After driving another two hundred meters, I found marked parking spaces and made the final decision: I was definitely going to explore the old town of Hreljin.
I parked the car and started walking through the forest. At times it felt like real hiking, but I never thought about giving up. In the end, after about twenty minutes of walking, I arrived at the location and was very glad I had decided to come. I tried to make the most of my stay in the area of the old town of Hreljin, took photos of everything I saw, enjoyed the whole ambiance, and the panoramic views of the surrounding places. Soon after arriving, I concluded that this place was exactly what I love to visit the most. Although it is not in the best possible condition, there are visible initiatives to turn this place into a proper small tourist spot.
Now, let’s see what the internet has to say about the Old town Hreljin.
Nestled on a pyramid-like hill, 321 meters above the sea, the old town of Hreljin, often referred to as “the Castle,” stands as a testament to Croatia’s rich medieval history. Located on the westernmost edge of Vinodol, above the former port of Bakarac, Hreljin’s strategic position once made it a vital residential, commercial, defensive, and administrative hub during the Middle Ages.
The story of Hreljin begins in 1225, a significant year marked by King Andrew II of Hungary’s donation of the principality of Vinodol, including Hreljin, to the Frangipanes. This medieval town flourished, supported by its advantageous location on the passage from the mountainous regions to the sea. Its importance was further underscored in historical documents like the 1288 Vinodol Code, which highlights its role in the region’s administrative and legal frameworks.
However, the town’s bustling activity came to a gradual halt due to significant economic shifts. The construction of the Karolina road, which provided a more direct route from Bakar to Karlovac, led to Hreljin’s decline. By 1790, the town was abandoned, with its last inhabitants, three priests, relocating to the new town of Hreljin.
Today, visitors to Hreljin can witness the remnants of its former glory. The conservation efforts have preserved parts of the town walls and two significant ecclesiastical structures: the bell tower of St. George’s Church and the ruins of the church itself, alongside the Church of the Holy Virgin Mary. These ruins not only offer a peek into the architectural styles of the period but also serve as a solemn reminder of the town’s historical significance. Walking through the ruins of Hreljin offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience the atmosphere of a once-thriving medieval town. Each stone and path tells a story of commerce, defense, and daily life in medieval Croatia, making Hreljin a must-visit for history buffs and travelers alike seeking to uncover the lesser-known treasures of Croatia.