After a long road trip at the end of August, it’s been two months since I last went on any trips to take photos for the Croatia Captured project. I knew I wouldn’t be able to do another long road trip until 2025, so I wrote down a few ideas for one- or two-day road trips to take before the end of 2024. The first of these was this one.
The plan was to visit a few places in Kvarner (specifically, the east side of the Istrian peninsula) and a few places within Istria itself.
The day started at 4 am, and I left Zagreb before 6 am. The weather wasn’t as I had hoped for, but at least it wasn’t raining. Fun fact: when I set off back to Zagreb, the clouds disappeared, and the sun was shining. Yes, fun times.
During the trip, I visited Lovran, Mošćenice (first visited in 2016), Brseč, Old Town Plomin, Old Town Kršan, and Old Town Labin. I had a few more places on the list, but this road trip was too much for one day, and I was too tired, so I set off for Zagreb after Labin.
Now, let’s see what the internet has to say about the second location of that day – Mošćenice.
Mošćenice is a picturesque medieval town perched 173 meters above the sea, offering breathtaking views of the Kvarner Bay, including the islands of Krk and Cres. Located just 14 kilometers from the popular resort town of Opatija and 2.5 kilometers from the small fishing village of Mošćenička Draga, Mošćenice is an essential stop for anyone exploring the eastern slopes of Mount Učka in Istria.
A Town Steeped in History
The name Mošćenice is first mentioned in historical records dating back to 1374, in a document from the Duino (Devin) family, but its roots stretch much further into the past. Archaeological findings indicate that the area has been inhabited since prehistoric times by the Liburni, an Illyrian tribe known for their seafaring skills. Under Roman rule in the 1st century AD, the town became part of the Roman Empire, with the Liburni contributing their swift vessels, known as “liburnae,” to the Roman naval fleet.
Over the centuries, Mošćenice passed through the hands of various rulers, including the Franks, Habsburgs, and the Jesuits. In 1637, the town received its first statute, marking the beginning of more structured governance. During the Austrian Empire and later the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, Mošćenice experienced several phases of cultural and economic growth.
Medieval Architecture and Cultural Landmarks
Mošćenice’s medieval charm is preserved in its narrow streets, winding passageways, and stone houses that seem frozen in time. Visitors enter the town through its only gate, which bears the Habsburg coat of arms from 1634, symbolizing its long-standing ties to the empire. Key historical landmarks include the 17th-century Parish Church of St. Andrew, the Church of St. Bartholomew built in 1628, and the Church of St. Sebastian, dating back to 1501, featuring traditional Istrian “lopica” (porches).
The town is also home to several noble residences, such as the Negovetić, Rubinić, and Dešković houses, and the castle (Kaštel), remnants of which still stand as a testament to the town’s strategic importance during medieval times. Additionally, Mošćenice boasts a unique olive press (toš-mlin), which offers visitors a glimpse into the town’s agricultural past.
A Hub for Nature Lovers
While Mošćenice is rich in history, it also serves as a gateway for nature enthusiasts. The town is a popular starting point for hikes up Mount Učka, with trails leading through abandoned villages and untouched natural landscapes. For those looking for relaxation, a stairway leads from the town down to the beautiful beach at Sv. Ivan in Mošćenička Draga.
Cultural Legacy
Mošćenice’s historical significance is further underscored by its role in the development of the Glagolitic script. Many public records, statutes, and official documents from the 14th to 17th centuries were written in Croatian using this ancient script, a testament to the area’s rich cultural heritage.
Today, Mošćenice remains a hidden gem in the Istrian Peninsula, offering a perfect blend of historical exploration and natural beauty. Its stone walls and medieval atmosphere draw visitors back in time, while its proximity to the sea and hiking trails make it a haven for adventurers.