After a long road trip at the end of August, it’s been two months since I last went on any trips to take photos for the Croatia Captured project. I knew I wouldn’t be able to do another long road trip until 2025, so I wrote down a few ideas for one- or two-day road trips to take before the end of 2024. The first of these was this one.
The plan was to visit a few places in Kvarner (specifically, the east side of the Istrian peninsula) and a few places within Istria itself.
The day started at 4 am, and I left Zagreb before 6 am. The weather wasn’t as I had hoped for, but at least it wasn’t raining. Fun fact: when I set off back to Zagreb, the clouds disappeared, and the sun was shining. Yes, fun times.
During the trip, I visited Lovran, Mošćenice (first visited in 2016), Brseč, Old Town Plomin, Old Town Kršan, and Old Town Labin. I had a few more places on the list, but this road trip was too much for one day, and I was too tired, so I set off for Zagreb after Labin.
Now, let’s see what the internet has to say about the fifth location of that day – Old town Kršan.
Old Town Kršan, one of the best-preserved castles in Istria, dates back to the 13th century. Perched on an elevation surrounded by oval defensive walls, this medieval fortress offers a glimpse into Croatia’s rich heritage. Known historically as Castrum Carsach, Kršan’s name was first recorded in 1274, with the settlement growing around it over the centuries.
The Architecture and Layout
The town is accessed through a well-preserved gate, leading to a small courtyard surrounded by remnants of residential and economic buildings. To the right of the entrance, the old municipal house leans against the defensive walls. Opposite this is the castle itself, built partially into a steep rock formation. The trapezoidal layout is crowned by a tall tower, dominating the entire town.
In the courtyard, the Gothic-style portal frame from the 15th century remains intact, along with a wellhead inscribed with the year 1666. The fortress is an architectural marvel, reflecting medieval design adapted to the rugged landscape.
The Church of St. Anthony the Abbot
Within the fortress complex stands the double-aisled Church of St. Anthony the Abbot, originally built in the 17th century and later renovated in the Baroque style in the 18th century. The church is notable for its stone altar, marble inlays, a marble baptismal font, a wash basin, and a silver chalice. A tombstone dating back to the 17th century can be found on the church floor. In 1803, a 22-meter-high freestanding bell tower was added, and at the beginning of the 20th century, the church acquired its organ.
Outside the fortress walls, in the cemetery, lies the Chapel of St. James, originally built in the 15th century and expanded in 1814. The floor of the chapel is marked by tombstones of feudal lords from the 15th to the 17th centuries, including the prominent 1415 tombstone of Julije Kršanski, inscribed in Gothic Latin.
A Center of Cultural and Legal History
In the 19th century, Kršan became the site of a significant historical discovery: the Istarski Razvod, a legal document offering invaluable insights into the literacy and daily life of Croats in this part of Istria. This document is a vital piece of Croatian cultural heritage, adding another layer to the historical significance of Old Town Kršan.
Today’s Kršan Though the Kršan Castle is now abandoned, its stone walls and structures continue to tell the story of a bygone era. The town that grew around the fortress eventually became the seat of the municipality of Kršan. While the castle itself is no longer inhabited, its historical and architectural significance draws visitors who are eager to explore the remnants of this medieval stronghold.